I got a very late start on this project due to some very busy weekend days. So, at roughly 8:30pm Sunday night, I started in.
Basically, I am taking the Master Cylinder from a Honda Silver Wing scooter, mounting it to the NM4 and plumbing the brake to the ABS module. It sounds simple, and it is for the most part.
The front brake on the NM4 seems to use the same master cylinder as the Silver Wing, so my new left hand brake matches almost exactly. The only difference is that my rear lever is not adjustable. There is an adjustable lever for the Silver Wing, but it will add nearly $100 to the cost of the project. I do not need the adjustment.
Here is the parts list:
Ordered from Motorcycle Superstore:
Goodridge Universal Brake Hose Color- Ebony/Black, Size- 36" $29.99
Goodridge 35 Degree Banjo Fitting Color- Black, Size- 3/8" $10.99
Goodridge 90 Degree Brake Fitting Color- Black, Size- Short $13.99
Ordered from ServiceHonda.com
Mfg Product Number: 43510-MGF-305 $118.78
Description: M/CYL SUB-ASSY, RR. for 2007 Honda FSC600A
Mfg Product Number: 53178-MGF-305 $12.88
Description: LEVER, L. HANDLEBAR for 2007 Honda FSC600A
Mfg Product Number: 90114-MA5-671 $5.84
Description: BOLT for 2007 Honda FSC600A
Mfg Product Number: 90145-MS9-612 $4.32
Description: BOLT, OIL (10X22) for 2007 Honda FSC600A
Mfg Product Number: 90201-415-000 $1.25
Description: NUT, CAP (6MM) for 2007 Honda FSC600A
Mfg Product Number: 90545-300-000 (Order 2 of these) $4.44
Description: WASHER, OIL BOLT for 2007 Honda FSC600A
Various: (most of this I had in my garage, so I have no idea on cost)
Some hookup wire to run from the new brake lever to the electrical connector at the brake pedal.
Something to cap the old brake line when pulled from the ABS controller.
bolts to hold the new master cylinder.
Electrical connectors. (I did not actually use)
several zip ties.
Roll or electrical tape.
Loctite blue threadlocker.
1 container of new DOT4 brake fluid. Naturally I use Amsoil.
Honda NM4 Factory Service Manual (really, you need this for the Tupperware)
5mm Allen wrench
4mm Allen wrench
Small flathead screwdriver (to pry/push)
heat gun (or do it the 'Bubba' way like I did and use your plumbing torch)
Angle cutters (to snip wire and zip tie ends)
Bone tool (smooth rigid plastic tool useful for prying panels apart - won't scratch)
Multi-meter (to test electrical circuit)
one-man brake bleeder kit (I use a vacuum pump version, but any kit will work if you follow the directions)
Good supply of shop rags. I use the blue Scott towel things. Yea, they are basically heavy paper towels, but they work.
You can order the Honda bolts to attach the Master Cylinder for like $3 each, or you can hit your local hardware store with the master in hand and get something in their bins for $0.30 each. I did the latter and got some nice black Allen head bolts.
I could not find a nice simple cap for the old brake line, so I got a nut and bolt from my stash. It's not the ideal, but it works. I applied a very small dab of silicon to the end of the bolt so there was some kind of seal when it was installed. I also used some loctite blue threadlocker when I put it on. You'll see in the photos how that goes.
This is pretty much a bolt-on job. The only fabricating I did was in the electrical as I was too cheap and lazy to source the proper electrical connectors.
First, you need to access the ABS controller. Sadly, to get there you need to remove the piece called the "Left Side Shelter" which is the large plastic piece your mirrors are connected to. Use the service manual to get the order of parts you need to take off and how to remove them. It is quite involved and will take some time. Be sure to organize all the parts and fasteners that you remove so that you know where they go. Also, when it comes time to reinstall, refer to the manual again to get the order right. Before you button anything up, beck to be sure you have all the tabs into the right places. I had to pull apart a piece because one little tab wasn't right and I could not bend the pieces enough to move it. UGH.
Once at the ABS controller, you want to remove this line:
This is the line from the brake pedal.
After you remove it, cap it tightly. Press the pedal to see if it leaks. Be cautious of any fluids that drip. Clean it up quickly. Keep a rag handy. Yea, my nut and bolt cap is kind of a kludge, but it really does work and cost me nothing as I had them in an old parts bin.
Attach the right angle adapter to the new brake line and attach it like shown. There isn't a lot of room to maneuver, so take your time and route the line up to the handlebars.
I then soldered my wire to the master cylinder's brake terminals (they point parallel with the handle bars. The lower ones that point back are not used - those are for the starter interlock on the scooter)
Then mount your Master Cylinder to the handlebar.
I added 2 levels of heat shrink to this. Tiny ones cover each terminal to keep the two wires isolated. I ended up bending them slightly apart to make the soldering easier. I then covered both down to where the wires were connected in a larger piece. It didn't quite shrink down enough to seal, so I also wrapped the end with a piece of 3M electrical tape. I use this same tape to keep the wire along the factory wire harness.
You can then attach the banjo fitting to the new brake line and using the banjo bolt and the two washers, attach the brake line to the Master Cylinder. You can see how that goes by looking at the front brake connection.
Now, I ran my brake hose down the front, under the heatsink on the headlight and made a loop over to the left side. This allow the steering to move easily. The wire heads down and past the steering pivot and out the right side behind where the metal vent trim attaches. From there we go down to the brake pedal.
You need to remove the right foot board. Then remove the cotter pin, snap ring, and big spring. push the pin that the cotter pin was in out so that you can remove the pedal. You end up with this:
There is another small spring that you can see in the back on the right. This connects to the switch that turns on the brake light. To access, you need to remove the plastic that is covering the radiator.
The switch is in a metal bracket and has a connector to the main wire harness. This is the ONLY piece that I did not preserve. The part is only $8 to buy a new one, so I cut the switch off, and spliced my wire from the brake lever to it. So, now I have a factory quick disconnect. Could not get a photo as it is buried behind a frame piece. Still, it was easy to connect the ends, solder them, shrink wrap them, and reinstall.
The last step is to bleed the system. I have a one-man bleeding setup which makes this easy. However, be prepared for the bleeder nipple to leak like crazy when you open it. Keep some rags handy and work fast. The bleeder is on top of the caliper. If you go in from the rear, you'll see it near the top of the muffler under a rubber cap.
Once you have a good lever feel (took me about a quarter of a bottle of DOT 4 fluid to stop getting air bubbles) you can button the whole thing up.
I got all the panels back on, cleaned up my work area, put tools away, and was in the house ready to hop in the shower at 11:30pm. So, in all it took me 3 hours to do the swap. Knowing what I do now about where to run hose/wire and exactly what panels need to come off, I might be able to shave a little off that time (^_^)
Oh, one thing to consider... If you can, get the bike level while bleeding. When on the side stand, the angle does not allow you to put much fluid in the master cylinder. I had just started when I managed to let the level drop too low and added air. My solution was to take a wood wedge and put it under the kickstand to lift the bike up closer to level. If you do this, be VERY careful you don't push it over. But that did make keeping the master cylinder topped off much easier.
I rode in to work this morning and it works great. Good feel for the brake, I think I get a better action, and it is so nice to have both feet on the ground, the brake holding the machine and able to operate the throttle without fear of rolling on a hill start.
Total cost? Sorry, I didn't keep track. The parts I ordered came out to about $235 with the shipping, but I also ordered other parts like the clutch oil filter and such, so it might not be totally accurate. The master cylinder is the single most expensive part, and you can save a lot if you find a wrecked Silver Wing scooter. I figure if you had to buy everything including the service manual, you could easily get it all for under $300. If you had a local mechanic do the work, add another $300 (3 hours @ $100 an hour). Still for a $600 investment, it is a very worthwhile modification in my book.
The only tweak I think I need to do is rotate the brake master cylinder a little bit. I'd like the lever to contact my fingers about 1/4-1/2 inch higher.
If there are any questions, I'll try my best to answer.